Bothy adventures in the Lake District and trail riding in North Yorkshire

It was about two years ago that my younger brother introduced me to the world of the Mountain Bothy Association http://www.mountainbothies.org.uk/index.asp.In some of the most remote parts of the UK there are basic shelters which provide a refuge from the elements to anyone who passes or stays the night. These are free but you can become a member for a small fee to contribute towards the upkeep. You need to be self sufficient if staying and take fuel for the fire. There
is no heating and there is always chance of meeting other intrepid adventurers. This is one step up from camping but is not for those of a nervous disposition if you have nightmares of staying in a deserted hut on the moors or in the woods!

Having built my mountain bike up this summer from an inherited Cove stiffee frame and tested it on the South Downs and around Bewl Water I wanted to get more adventurous. So when my brother suggested a biking trip I knew there would be a bothy or two involved.
We drove to the Lake District and after finding the only shop in the village we stocked up with the essentials - Port and cheese! and as dusk fell drove to the head of the valley and put our bikes together. It was at this point that my brother discovered the perils of keeping your bike in the loft as a mouse had chewed through his rear brake cable. As the light faded and the temperature dropped, we had an hours ride ahead of us with heavy packs weighed down by 5kg coal for the fire. In a scene from Apocalypse Now, two helicopters buzzed over the ridge silhouetted against the clear night sky and disappeared up the valley to drop off what we later discovered were trees to reforest the slopes. As silence returned and the cloak of darkness wrapped itself around the hills we set off towards the bothy at Mosedale Cottage. Stars started to pin prick the sky and our eyes started to adjust to the gloom. Passing by a deserted hill farm we had to push the bikes up and over the head of the valley. Riding was difficult with boggy ground and streams but our lights picked out the path and soon the bothy appeared ahead with its whitewashed walls standing out. I was so happy to finally get my pack and the coal off my back. We had the bothy to ourselves and soon had the stove alight. It was very tidy inside with several armchairs (don't expect to find such luxury in any other bothies). The previous occupants had left coal and candles. We ate like kings and supped the Port from mugs. As it started to snow lightly we slept infront of the fire and woke to find a clear morning.On the ride back down we were treated to a wild stag and two hinds on the ridge above. I don't know who was more surprised.We found a bike shop and repaired the brake before heading on to Ambleside for a 22km loop. Riding light we followed bridal paths across the hills and passed several riders . Around us the sky's darkened and we skirted the edge of a hail shower to make it back to the car as the light faded. It was then a drive to Honister Pass with a pit stop for beers. Leaving the car at the slate mine we took the decision to leave the bikes and walk up to Warnscale Head bothy. This overlooks Buttermere and is a rebuilt stone hut on the side of the mountain. It took two hours to get there and as we were about to climb back up in search of it, I 
found it around a rocky outcrop. No armchairs this time just a 12ft x 8ft hut with stone sleeping platforms. Luckily we were alone again and another bag of coal was duly lit. Open fire this time which was very smokey to start but soon heated us. Yes there was more Port naturally and candles giving it the feel of a hobbit house! Daylight gave us stunning views and showed us where we had strayed from the path. Our return only took an hour and we headed to To Ullswater to ride HIghstreet. This promised a long ridge ride after a tough climb and as we left the carpark the top of the hills were shrouded in low cloud and it looked like we would see some snow. The ride soon became a slog over streams and walls and even saw us carrying bikes up a steep bank for a short distance. This was shaping up to be the 'epic' ride my brother had promised. We pushed up,up,up towards the cloud and across the snow line. Descending walkers said it was icy on the top and thought we we brave/crazy to be wearing cycle longs. Into a world of white where the grass was encased in ice and the ground crunched beneath our wheels. It levelled out and we turned for the summit with a last push to the top. Stopping briefly to put on an extra layer and bite into an energy bar we turned for the descent back to the ridge. This was proper mountain biking against the elements and there was a huge grin on my face as I skidded and bumped my way down. Following the ridge along the old Roman road we kept the height but unfortunately did not get the magnificent views because of the cloud. For the whole 5 mile traverse we saw no one but saw tracks in the snow. Dropping beneath the cloud we glimpsed the lake and turned towards the car. There was a sweeping grassy track with jumps to get the pulse racing then another slog up and over in the dark, to drop into the valley. Riding at night down the mountain track focuses your mind and was the highlight for me. I was thankful for putting my light on the bike as an afterthought! Tired and with cold and wet feet I was pleased for the heater and dry socks. Then we drove to North Yorkshire to stay wih my brother in law and squeezed in a visit to the trail centre at Dalby forest near Malton. This had been used for a World Cup x country race so we had high hopes. It did not disappoint and a three hour single track ride gave us a real taste of the course through some amazing scenery. The tracks are in good condition and well thought out to give something for all levels. There is a decent bike shop and a cafe to complete the experience. I recommend this to all. It was like riding Bedgebury x 10 and only cost £4 to get into.

So the Lakes were a challenge and lived up to the epic ride promised. The cooked breakfasts were excellent, the bothies wild and remote, the beer was cheap
and the welcome everywhere warm. Dalby forest delivered and my feet did eventually dry out.

Jon Stainsby